Kolkata’s street-stall meat roll is a good place to start at Madhumoti: grilled marinated chicken in a lemony, slightly sweet sauce with chopped vegetables, rolled in flaky paratha. Fish bhuna, with chunks of fish in a tangy, spicy sauce, is a standout.
The menu sticks to Bengali home favourites such as saag chingri (prawns in a spinach gravy) and begun bhorta, a mashed eggplant dish. The room is simple, on the corner of Irving and Albert streets near Footscray Station.
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